Start going barefoot in your boots now to make your feet tougher (not on road marches, only in garrison). Try to go barefoot as much as possible to build up the callous on your feet. there are a few methods to toughen your feet up quicker also with chemicals: you can rub alcohol on them every night, put Benzoin Tincture on them every night (the most proven method), or use tuffoot every night. Here are links for Benzoin tincture and tuffoot:
I’ve only ever used the barefoot in boots method, and I don’t get blisters at all. I’ve heard good stuff about the other methods though.
FITTING YOUR BOOTS
I like mine to fit like running shoes, pretty snug (when they are new at least – they will stretch quickly) but with some room to wiggle the toes (not tight on your toes at all). If they don’t fit SEND THEM BACK. do not wear boots that don’t fit right. Order a size or size and a half smaller than shoe size (I wear size 9.5 – 10 run shoe, size 8 – 9 boots). Yes, sometimes you will have to send them back or sell to a buddy.
A special note – if you are going to use insoles in your boots (which you really should), as mentioned below, be sure to get the insoles first and put them in the boots when you are trying them on. Some insoles are thick enough that you need to go up a half size.
Buy the old Vietnam jungle boots that were manufactured in the 70′s or the same boot currently made by wellco. They have the thickest leather, best soles, best material, and last the longest. You can tell them from other brands of jungles because they have big eyelets, thicker leather, and cotton and nylon uppers (as opposed to all nylon uppers or all cotton uppers). If you can’t get those boots, buy boots made by Wellco. Wellco also makes some new jungles with nice running soles on them. I don’t have a pair but I’m hearing good things about them. They (Wellco) also make the desert boot, which is much more comfortable than other jungles due to the suede material. They come tan but you can dye them black if you need to. Seriously, only the genuine Vietnam issue boots or wellco made boots are worth your money. here are links to buy Vietnam jungles and wellco boots – the recommended ones on the first link are ONLY item # B9701:
look around on the wellco site, all their boots are quality made. The pair with running soles is about $80 shipped.
In addition, here is chipper’s link for jungles. They have sizes listed and are actually cheaper
The black Army issue jungles they sell at the PX are an OK alternative, especially since the others are getting harder to find and regulations are changing on green jungles. But look into the others before you settle for the PX boots.
How to tell the old (better) jungles from cheap imitations and junkers (like altamas and SOGs) – a few ways. The eyelets are visibly much larger. The uppers are made of a different materiel – seems to be cotton uppers with nylon crossovers. The leather is a bit thicker, a little less flexible. Sometimes the soles are in the early sixties pattern – hard to find. What you really need to do is see a pair of the old boots and examine them carefully. After that you will always be able to tell. If you are looking to buy a pair, look for surplus stores that advertise Vietnam jungle boots – not Vietnam STYLE jungle boots. Then call them and ask if they are actually the ones made in the 60s and 70s. Usually they will be honest and tell you if they know.
INSOLES-THE HEART OF YOUR BOOT
Do not ignore this one. good insoles that mold to your feet are available. The Sole technology insoles work spectacularly (about $40 online – available at military clothing in the PX for $25). Took them through SFAS – not a single blister and very easy on my feet. A buddy took them through delta selection with the same results. Better than running shoe insoles, at least for me. If you don’t opt for them, put your best running shoe insoles in your boots. It makes a big difference in the way your feet feel. Don’t ignore it, its a big one, just try it and see. Do not go cheap on insoles.
Removing the toe and heel cups- This takes about 2 hours per boot the first time you do it. There are three layers inside your boot: liner, cup, and leather. Find where the cup ends in the front of the boot by feeling for it through the liner (which is usually yellow or gray) inside the boot. When you find that little gap, work it with your fingers until you get the material to separate a little. Then, very carefully, cut through the hanging material with a blade. Once you have that little cut/rip started, use it to rip out ALL of the liner material.
Once you have the liner out you should very easily be able to feel where the cup ends and leather begins. Take a non-sharp tool, such as a flathead screwdriver or even your fingers, and jam it between the leather and the cup. Work it around and separate the cup from the leather all the way down to the sole where the cup goes in. It is ok if you rip the cup while doing this.
Finally, once you’ve completely separated the cup from the leather as described above, put a pair of pliers (like a leatherman) in the boot and use it to twist the cup until it rips out. This is a lot harder than it sounds: you really have to muscle it to get it out.
This takes time but is well worth it, and you get faster with every pair you do. There is a place that supposedly will do it for you for $15 or so – have seen mixed results with that.
Softening your boots – you can use the old way of just using Kiwi softeners and polish, or you can use neatstoot oil (a softener for saddle leather). Neatsfoot is the best way to go.
There is a great process to do this right. First sand your boots down until the raw leather is exposed. This gets rid of the paint they put on your boots at the factory (yes, they actually PAINT them) and allows the oil to soak in.
Next, apply the oil very liberally. Rub it in for 15 minutes (working the leather). Let it sit overnight, repeat to your desire. At least 4 times is a good rule. Baseball glove softener also works, but don’t bake your boot in the oven or park a car on it like you would a glove. You can buy neetsfoot oil online or at any farm supply or saddle shop. Talk to someone who has something to do with horses and they can get it for you. The link below has it for pretty cheap:
http://www.livestockconcepts.com/neatsfootoil.html (COMPILER’S NOTE: Amazon.com also carries neatsfoot oil.)
To break them in fast, just wear them soaking wet for a few hours a couple of times, usually that does the trick. However, if you oil them, you really don’t even need to do that.
Getting them resoled at Ranger Joes costs about $45 – that is to get them soled and get the steel shank removed from them. This is also well worth your time and money. If you get them resoled, ask them for the softest vibram running shoe soles they have, not the ripple soles or any others. The running soles wear out quicker than others but are the way to go. Joes site:
There is also a place that puts actual vibram running soles on your boots, for about $50. These are definitely the best resole deal going. We used these going through selection with spectacular results. WELL WORTH YOUR $$.
There are a million ways to lace. Invent your own that is most comfortable. A good way is to lace the first three eyes, then put knots in the lace so that the laces stay LOOSE IN THE BOTTOM THREE EYES. This helps prevent tendonitis by alleviating the pressure in the tendons on top of the foot. Then, lace straight up one hole (without crossing over) so the boot has a place to bend without biting into the foot. From there on it does not matter for me how I lace them, so I either lace regular or skip right to the top holes simply for speed. Everyone laces differently. That is my way, one out of a million.
Types of laces – gutted 550 is the about the strongest most durable lace you can get, and you can buy black, or dye the green to black if you have to. Gutted 550 will lay flat against your foot and minimize abrasion and friction on your ankle/foot. Otherwise, 100% nylon laces are the best (but they bite into your foot). Laces with cotton in them fray to much and break.
Sole damage and glue – sometimes when you get boots resoled they don’t glue the new ones perfectly, or you mess them up a little and they start to separate from the boot. The best thing to do is take them back to the place you got them soled at – usually they will repair them for free. If not, buy some Guerrilla Glue (IS THIS GORILLA GLUE?). Guerrilla glue is the strongest glue around, some places even use it to put your soles on. Just put a liberal amount on and let it cure for the recommended time. (COMPILER’S NOTE: Freesole is a similar and excellent product.)
Black issue socks are poor quality, shrink fast, and generally do not do what they should for your feet. The green issue socks are definitely of higher material quality, at least last longer, and seem to feel better. They are available at most surplus stores and definitely at ranger Joes. The various extra Thorlo socks the PX offers are ok, but are too thick for summertime comfort and normal boot fit. Dress socks work OK, but can give you hot spots on long movements.
The best alternative seems to be Smartwool socks, normal thickness Coolmax socks, or ingenious socks (INJINJI?). All of those and more are available at most hiking stores like REI and some outlets like Bass Pro. Many of them come in green, black, or some dark color. They all seem to work great – here is what to look for: a sock designed for extreme hiking/activity; a sock designed for warm weather wear; and socks that are about normal thickness, not overly bulky so that your boot is no longer comfortable. The only disadvantage to these socks is that they usually cost about $8-10 a pair.
Last note on socks – DO NOT WEAR 100% cotton socks (like your white socks) WITH BOOTS. When they get wet with sweat, they will shred your feet like a blender. Just ask Dan Maher, a stud that was in the hospital after walking a mere 12 miles with his white socks on.
THE PERFECT BOOTS
Here is how you build the perfect 2 sets of field boots: 1 basic set you can wear comfortably to any school, 1 specialized set you wear whenever you are allowed
First – buy 2 pair of the old jungles (like from JW Surplus).
-Take both pairs, strip them with low grit sand paper, taking just a tiny bit of the black coating off until you can see the raw leather (about 1 hour a pair).
-Rub a very liberal coating of neatsfoot oil into them, then let them sit over night. Do that a total of 4 times.
-Now go ahead and put a liberal coating of black kiwi on them, rub it in well. Do it as much as you prefer, the more the better.
-You are done with one pair (unless you want to take the toe cups out of it) that will be your pair you can wear to any school.
-send the other pair off to re-sole.com and get the vibram new runner put on them and the steel shanks removed from the sole. If re-sole.com is not available or out of business, just get the softest, cushiest soles on the market put on them and the shanks removed.
-when you get them back, take the toe cups out of them (wait until you get them back b/c some places wont put soles on boots without toe cups in them)
-Now get the soles technology insoles listed above and follow the molding process (that is key). If you cant do that then use your best running shoe insoles.
-Now lace them with black 550 to your preference, and sink your feet into the softest, most comfortable pair of boots you have. Your money will be well spent (the total cost for my favorite pair of jungles is about $140, not to include hours put into softening and taking out cups. That is still cheaper than most good hunting boots).
If you buy the Sole Tech insoles from the PX, make sure you get them about a half size to a full size larger than your boot size. If you don’t, when you mold them to the boot and your foot, there will be a gap between the end of the insole and the front of your boot, and your toes will hang over slighty and become very uncomfortable.
Also, its fine to use your altamas to resole and such if you already bought them. But if not, you can get better boots for less from wellco or surplus sources.
Sanding the leather down just takes off the finisher most makers paint on the boot to make it look nice. this opens up the pores for when you treat the leather to soften it, remember we are talking very fine grit paper here not the kind of stuff on your garage sander. I am not sure where I stand on taking out the toe and heel cups, it takes away support, but basically gives you that running shoe feel, it is reallly if you need it. Do these make your boots look “good” for schools? It has nothing to do with looks it is about performance. I am an athlete, when you run a race do you wear your Doc Martins or your racing spikes? This is to build a performance boot that is going to treat your feet right under bad conditions and the long haul. THat is why there is a lot of variables and ultimately this is only a guide the rest is what works best for the individual.
“I shot an email to militarybootrepair.com last week and I recived this reply.
‘we can remove the toe counters, but don’t recommend removing the heel counters– you need them for stability. $10 to remove toe counters….’”
Evil Lightfighter wrote:
“Best way to use the Neetsfoot oil (imho) is to buy enough to soak your boots in a bucket (jungles don’t need to be entirely dunked under the neets), it’ll run you about $30-$50 bucks.
Let them soak for two or three days and then pull them out of the bucket and wear them around until they are dry. Some Neetsfoot oil will seep out of the leather for a couple of days and stain your socks black , but its no big deal and won’t harm your feet.
Doing this after sanding your boots will give you the softest and most comfortable pair of combat boots in the world. An added bonus to using the Neets this way, is that your leather will become 100% waterproof.
A word of caution though, only use this method on your field boots as you’ll never be able to get your boots highly shined again.”
RIT Medic wrote:
“I have had the heel and toe caps removed from all my boots as well as soaking them in Neetsfoot oil. This not only makes them soft and waterproof but if left in the oil long enough will completely dye the leather black so you dont have to worry about the gray leather showing thru after scuffing them.
Clark’s Boot Repair on Yadkin Rd is where I would recommend having your mods done. Clark’s Boot Repair can be found at http://www.sealashine.com/
You only remove the liner far enough back to expose the toe cap. Should be only about 2-3 inches from the front of the boot.”
“Gentlemen, I’ve been trying the recommendations posted in this thread on two new pairs of Wellco jungle boots and let me tell you, these boots are as soft as butter after a weekend of sanding and soaking. For me, 320 grit sandpaper did the trick. Then, a combination of Obenaufs boot oil and heavy duty leather preservative plus Kiwi black boot polish, repeated indefinitely over the course of two days, made the leather super comfortable.
I also tried those Sole Technology insoles at my local running store and even just trying them in the store without actually molding them to my feet, they made a world of difference. These insoles are very contoured and offer great arch support. They take up quite some space in the boot though.”
Evil Lightfighter reposted from SOCNET:
“Here you go.
1. when you clip your toenails, you want to ensure that you use a nail clipper with STRAIGHT EDGES.
If you look at your standard nail clipper, the edges are almost always shaped in a half-moon configuration, like an arc. Those are fingernail clippers, and should be used only on fingernails.
Toenail clippers are always straight. If they are not straight, they are not for toenails. You can use scissors, or whatever, but it is best to use straight toenail clippers because using scissors requires expertise and know-how and a deft hand and if you use a real sharp pair (as you must for them to work correctly) you can stab the shit out of yourself if your buddies bitchslap you while you are taking care of your shit or if you flinch or shake because you’re drunk or whatever.
Straight nail clippers work best on feet, and you just need to do whatever is necessary to find a couple of pair.
2. Straight toenail clippers are LARGER than standard clippers. You have to look hard at the stuff sold at the PX or wherever you are buying your foot care gear. Make sure they are sharp as hell, and that they have a good wide set of handles. Spend more for good quality, and don’t be afraid to really bust out the green and buy a good pair of GERMAN clippers. Those fuckers make shit like that better than anyone else.
3. Toenails should ALWAYS be cut STRAIGHT ACROSS, NEVER IN AN ARC. Look at your fingernails. Typically, for most people who are not genetically one step descended from apes, fingernails are curved. Toenails can be curved, if you are an idiot and have not TRAINED them to grow straight, but having curved toenails is like begging to be fucked up the ass. You will get ingrown toenails, and those motherfuckers hurt real, real bad.
4. When I say that toenails need to be cut straight across, I mean just that. You will see that the nail itself will probably end up being longer at the ends where they protrude from the toe bed, and that is fine. They can be shorter at the center, as long as they are straight across. Cutting them in this way, training them to grow this way, is intended to help prevent them from growing into the SIDES of your toe beds.
5. You may need to get under the toenails at the edges, and work under them to ensure that they do not dig into the sides of your toes. Just work with them on a daily basis to help guide them where you want them to go. If your shit is too fucked up, go to a podiatrist, explain what you are doing and why, and ask him for his advice. He may be able to just yank the fuckers so you can start over and train them from the beginning. Regardless, you need to get all the toe-jam out from under and beside your toenails, and you should do this weekly in garrison, and daily in the bush, at minimum.
6. You don’t want your toenails to be so long that they are bumping into the toe of your boot from the inside. They need to be long enough to protect the top of the toe, but not so long that they are the first part of your foot to contact the toe of the boot from the inside when you move your foot forward. If they fall out, don’t sweat it. If you need to remove them, don’t sweat it. Just work with them and train them so they grow back right, if they grow back at all.
7. You need to keep your toenails fucking trimmed, and that means you may need to clip them more than once a week. When you are in the bush, and your dogs are literally your life, then you will inspect them and maintain them and do whatever is necessary to keep them right every day, sometimes several times a day, conditions permitting. I’ll talk about tolnaftate or other anti-fungals, foot powder, etc., down below.
8. Boot sizing is critical. You especially need to pay attention to boot width. Go to a shoe store, an actual shoe store, and have a competent person size your foot, while you are standing. If you can, “liberate” an “oppressed” foot sizer device, one of those things they use in shoe stores, so you can size your foot while actually wearing a 60 to 80lb ruck on your back. Your foot WILL spread. Know your boot size, and when you get sized in the army, speak up and stand up for yourself, as you will be given boots, but your life will suck far worse if they are the wrong goddamned size. Remember that S4 Civilians are often shitheads sucking on the tit of government service, and they will often try to treat you like a louse and simply throw shit at you. Demand respect, politely, but demand it, and get it, and get your correct goddamned boot size. You will probably want between one half to one inch room in the toe. You want your heel to be secure, and not slip out of the heel cup of the boot. This is important. You will need to snug down the ankle part of the boot to a point where you are not inhibiting blood flow to the foot, but adequately to ensure that your heel does not slip. You do not want your feet sliding around inside your boot.
9. Depending on the type of boot you get, you may or may not need to shape them to your feet to accelerate or facilitate the “break-in” process. There are a million methods of accomplishing this. Some folks wear their boots in the shower, and then walk around with them wet until they dry on their feet. Some folks just wear their boots for a month until they are broken in the hard way.
I used to literally soak my boots in a BUCKET of Neet’s Foot Oil, which can be a very expensive proposition if you go to the store and see how much an entire bucket’s worth will cost you. The thing is, Neet’s Foot Oil breaks down the leather, whether you are using old-style authentic green jungle boots, newer-style black jungle boots, full-leather standard Army-issue boots, or whatever. I have no idea what kind of boots are issued these days, or permitted. But Neet’s Foot Oil can make your boots softer than slippers, meaning the uppers will be nice and soft, and waterproof as HELL. When you are a grunt, and you live and die on your feet, no money is too much for the right shit, and Neet’s Foot Oil IS the shit. No, I don’t own stock or Neet’s Foot Oil futures.
10. The Neet’s Foot Oil treatment is only appropriate for boots worn in the field. It will ruin all chance for boots to look “normal” or pretty for garrison purposes, but for field boots, you will thank me every day you wear them in the bush if you prepare your field boots in this way. I used to soak my boots, completely immersing them, (at least just the leather part, or completely, if they were all leather boots), for about two weeks. No kidding. Periodically, I would pull the boots out, and rough up the outer surface with a steel brush, carefully. This was so the Neet’s Foot Oil could soak in deeper into the leather, completely saturating it. When I came back from the bush, I would clean my boots, then reinsert them into a bucket, or just liberally coat them repeatedly with more layers, to maintain the water repellency and softness.
11. Boots prepared in this way are completely waterproof. They will leak Neet’s Foot Oil onto your socks for awhile after you prepare them (this is ugly, but harmless), but they will last a long time, remain totally waterproof, and require very rare applications of black shoe polish, which means you can skip packing a can of polish and a rag in your ruck. Your boots will stay black, no matter what, and you will not have to polish them. Your boots will get softer than hell, and very comfortable, and you will like them more than tennis shoes. Your boots will be as waterproof or more so than a set of gore tex boots, but they will be a hell of a lot cheaper, even considering the cost of the Neet’s Foot Oil (it might cost around $20-30 for enough to immerse your boots, with a bucket large enough to fit both boots in it).
12. The ultimate combo is a pair of SEAL Skins gore tex booties (or your alternative preferred gore tex bootie, which also must be carefully sized to ensure it does not SLIP inside the boot) and a properly broken in and prepared Neet’s Footed pair of jungle boots. You can stay amazingly dry, and that means you can stay surprisingly warm. Getting your feet wet can be a serious, serious problem in the bush. Any way you can find to minimize it, particuarly when you are carrying your house on your back and you are moving dozens of klicks a day for days at a time, will save you time, pain, and grief. It will keep you mission-effective, and you will be able to ruck harder, and farther, and you will remember me and this guidance in strange places and on many lonely nights and you will be very grateful that you heeded me.
13. Now, let’s talk about socks. In the bad, bad bush, where you are in fucking rain forest like Panama or parts of Colombia, Central America, Peru, the Amazon Basin, that sort of thing…..if you are walking through streams, in streams (sometimes jungle is just too thick, and you have to walk IN the streams, as dangerous as it can be), I never wore socks. My feet were like rocks, anyway, and wearing socks just kept them wetter. You have to dry your feet out under these conditions, and that means sometimes you have to stop, hang your ruck from a tree (carefully, being aware of snakes and ants and spiders and millipedes and shit) put up your goddamned jungle hammock, and get into it to pull foot maintenance, clean your weapon, eat chow, etc. The major part of foot maintenance under extreme conditions can be merely drying your feet out.
14. Once you do what you can to keep your feet dry, you check your nails, make sure they are cool, then you clip them if necessary. If you are not in the jungle, but are just in forests, your sock selection will be based primarily on the weather and the temperature. In warmer weather, particularly if I was moving long distances and my feet were going to be swelling a bit after rucking for many hours, I would skip socks entirely and wear ONLY sock liners, typically polypro or something along those lines. These extract sweat away from your feet, trasmitting it into the surrounding leather or goretex bootie, and help keep your feet DRY. Remember what I said about dry feet? Dry feet are always warmer than wet feet. Dry feet are HAPPY feet. Thin sock liners ALSO have the crucial benefit of helping you avoid blisters, and this is a major, major bonus.
15. Depending on the terrain, environment, etc., I would go sockless in the jungle, and otherwise wear liners, only, under all other conditions except cold, cold weather and mountainous terrain, and then I would carefully consider what would work best under those situations. I got to a point where I really preferred sock liners under the vast majority of situations, and would just put them on under SEAL Skins gore tex booties in properly prepared and broken-in Neet’s Footed jungle boots or standard Army issue leather boots. Standard boots, properly prepared, can be pretty nice in colder weather, as they lack that stupid steel shank that used to be included in jungle boots. That shank would make your feet colder than hell, sometimes. Anyway, wearing just liners, my dogs would stay dry, and since they were dry, they were WARM. Nothing better than warm dogs. I shit you not. Nothing worse than cold feet.
16. Ok. If it is pretty cold out, and you need more insulation, then you have to look at your boot choice versus your sock choice. If you go with a warmer sock, test out and strongly consider Smart Wool socks. You can get them at LL Bean, REI (yes, you should be a member), joints like that. You have to make sure that you get them in a tall enough height, like ankle height, or boot height, whatever, so they don’t scrunch down into your boot and fuck up your feet by cramping your toes, and you have to carefully look at the weave, thickness, etc., but generally, a Smart Wool sock will have properties of moisture management and warmth that are unmatched by virtually anything else.
Be careful with your sizing. You want to ensure that your socks fit right inside your boots, and that your feet fit correctly inside your boots wearing socks of different sizes. You need to be careful: if your feet slide when wearing just liners, you need to tighten your shit up, or maybe use a half-size smaller. If your boots are too tight when wearing Smart Wool thicker socks (like during the wintertime), then you need to loosen them up, or go a half-size larger. The only difference, generally, between a half-size is like a half-inch in the toe.
17. For colder weather, you can generally assume you will be wearing different boots, so you will want to properly prepare and size your cold weather boots separately and differently from your warm weather boots, and both should be separate from your jungle boots. These are three separate climates. They require three different sets of foot SYSTEMS, including boots, socks, liners, booties, etc.
In colder weather, I like boots with a little thinsulate in them. I personally wear these boots made by Chippewa. I was issued a pair by the Army a long time ago, and I really liked them, even though they were heavy as shit, so I checked out the Chippewa website and ordered a couple of pairs that were like Army boots but better. You have the option of steel toes, etc., but I would recommend avoiding that unless you want to invite frost bite.
My Chippewas are warmer than hell, they took the Neet’s Foot Oil treatment like champs, they are soft, and they are very durable. You need to be careful, because if you get the wrong ones, they can be a little too heavy, but you need to draw a distinction between boots worn in garrison for training for rucking, etc., and boots worn in forests or mountains in snow or rain or just plain old cold ass weather. For the latter, these are your boots, though others may have differing guidance.
18. Ok…where are we…..let’s talk about what you do to maintain your feet.
You want to powder your feet at least once a day, regardless of where you are, or what you are doing. And that means right now. You want to use any powder with anti-fungal properties, like Desenex, whatever, and yes, cans cost a shitload (like six bucks!) at the grocery store, while they are FREE in the Army. In garrison, powder your feet when you put your boots on in the morning, after your shower. If your feet are sore, or crampy, massage them, and massage them right. If you don’t know how to do that, go get a foot massage from a Rolfer masseuse, and ask them to show you what to do. They can put you to sleep with a fucking foot massage, and teach you how to bring a woman to climax with a foot massage. I shit you not.
In the bush, you powder your feet as needed, whenever possible, depending on what your team leader says, or is appropriate. You will learn about this as you proceed through Basic, etc. You do this both to help keep your feet dry, but also to change socks (from wet to dry), to CLEAN your feet, and to stay ahead of fungal infections. Itchy feet fucking suck. That’s why you ALWAYS wear shower shoes in the Army rather than bare feet. ALWAYS. Never walk around barefooted. You will get a gnarly fungusamungus and hate life.
If you do get a fungal infection, see your doc and get some stuff for it. There are a variety of drops and creams and stuff that work ok, as long as you use them for a FULL course of treatment, and then continue with good maintenance and prevention using powder.
19. Ok. That’s about it. I am probably forgetting something, but I’ll let the others jump in here with their opinions and corrections. In sum, you get boots that are the correct size based on what you are doing, where you are doing it, and when; you prepare the boots, breaking them in, waterproofing them; you exercise care in sock selection and sock usage; you practice good foot hygiene, and keep your shit trained and trimmed, and you use both experience and gear to keep your feet dry, whether the weather is hot or warm. If you are in hot weather, you wear appropriate boots and liners to keep your feet as cool as possible. You can use antipersperant to actually inhibit sweating, helping keep your feet dry. No kidding. In cold weather, same thing.”
Compiled by Runcible